Lascimmia
What to do in Genoa off the beaten track
Are you curious to discover Genoa in its lesser-known aspects? Then read our article with some experiences to get to know an Unusual Genoa.
I am Matteo, one of the guys from Scimmia Viaggiatrice and I was born in Genoa, even though my family moved to Piedmont when I was little. However, the bond with my hometown has never been broken. Since I was a child, I often returned to Genoa with my grandfather, who was originally from Monferrato but had lived for 40 years in the Ligurian capital, working as a shoemaker and leather goods maker. My grandfather knew the city like the back of his hand, especially the lesser-known corners, and he told me stories and anecdotes about the most hidden and fascinating places. During my university years, I began to explore the city independently, discovering and rediscovering its wonders. In this article I want to share with you 7 out-of-the-ordinary experiences to discover an unusual Genoa, far from the classic tourist itineraries.
Unusual Genoa: The Secret Alleys of the Historic Center
The historic center of Genoa is one of the largest and best preserved in Europe, a labyrinth of “caruggi” — the characteristic narrow alleys that wind between ancient buildings, churches and hidden squares. Exploring these alleys means immersing yourself in another era, discovering glimpses of a city that jealously guards its secrets. While Via Garibaldi and Piazza San Matteo are among the most well-known destinations, there are less-traveled corners, but with an indisputable charm, starting with their names.
You should know, in fact, that many alleys in the historic center of Genoa take their names from the trades or activities that once took place there. For example, Vico del Fieno was called that because it was where the warehouses were located where hay for the horses was stored. Vico dei Cartai, on the other hand, housed the workshops of the artisans who produced paper. Another example is Vico del Ferro, where the blacksmiths’ workshops were located. These names are a living testimony to the ancient artisan and commercial traditions that once animated the beating heart of the city.
Another alley with a particular name is Vico dell’Amor Perfetto. This small alley owes its name to a romantic legend involving Tomasina Spinola and Louis XII, King of France. According to legend, the king, in disguise, went to the alley several times during his stays in Genoa to see his beloved Tomasina. A faithful wife, Tomasina died of a broken heart in 1505 after learning the false news of the king’s death. When Louis XII returned to Genoa as an enemy and learned the sad news of Tomasina’s death, he went once again under the windows of his beloved. There he is said to have uttered the famous phrase: “It could have been the perfect love”.
What to do in Genoa: Visit the Church of Santa Maria di Castello
The Church of Santa Maria di Castello is one of Genoa’s hidden treasures, a place that encompasses centuries of history, art and spirituality. Located in the neighborhood of the same name, in the heart of the historic center, the church stands on a hill overlooking the ancient port. In fact, it is a strategic point that has been crucial for the defense and control of the city since Roman times. This privileged position offers not only a panoramic view of the old city and the sea. In fact, it also represents a symbol of the ancient history of Genoa, with roots that go back to the Middle Ages.
The Church was built in the 12th century on the remains of an ancient early Christian chapel. Over the centuries, it has become a religious and cultural reference point for the city. Within its walls, you can admire splendid cycles of Renaissance and Baroque frescoes, which tell the religious and artistic history of Genoa. The cloister, with its 15th-century frescoes, is one of the most evocative corners of the complex, an oasis of peace and beauty that invites reflection and meditation.
Inside the church of Santa Maria di Castello, there are also two tombstones set in the wall, with inscriptions in Arabic. This is a very rare occurrence for a Catholic church in Europe. The inscriptions report some suras of the Koran and it is believed that they were brought to Genoa as booty during the Crusades. Another hypothesis considers it a sign of respect and admiration for the Muslim culture with which the Genoese traded and interacted. I want to think that this unique presence is a symbol of the open and multicultural nature of Genoa. In fact, the city has historically always been a crossroads of cultures, trade and religions.
Unusual Genoa: the Eastern Market of Genoa
The Eastern Market of Genoa, located in the pulsating heart of Via XX Settembre, is a lively center of daily life and tradition. Let’s say that it is an ideal place to discover that unusual Genoa a and authentic that many tourists fail to know. Inaugurated in 1899 inside a cloister of an ancient convent, this covered market represents one of the most authentic examples of Genoese culture. Here, among historic stalls and new gastronomic proposals, you can discover a vast selection of local products, from fresh and colorful vegetables to typical Ligurian oils and cheeses.
Entering the market, you are immediately surrounded by an explosion of scents and colors. The fish stalls offer a variety of fresh fish, from red shrimp from Santa Margherita to icefish that now replaces the famous whitebait (fishing is prohibited), ideal for preparing traditional dishes such as marinated anchovies. The butchers, with their selected meats, offer local cuts of meat, while Ligurian cheeses and cured meats are a must for anyone who wants to take home a taste of Genoa. (One thing I would recommend you do in Genoa before you leave is to buy testa in cassetta and cima alla genovese!)
In addition to fresh produce, the Mercato Orientale also hosts several shops that sell spices, wines, and artisanal products, allowing visitors to fully immerse themselves in the culinary experience of the city. Not just a place to buy, the market is also a social meeting point, where residents and tourists mingle, exchanging advice on recipes and products.
Recently, part of the market has been renovated and hosts a modern food court area, the MOG, where you can taste dishes prepared with the fresh ingredients of the market, making the experience even more complete and satisfying.
What to do in Genoa: A Panoramic Walk along the Walls of Genoa
The ancient walls of Genoa represent one of the most impressive urban fortification circuits in Europe. It is a silent but powerful testimony to the strategic and military past of the city. These walls, begun in the 9th century and expanded in the following centuries, extend for about 19 kilometers. They embrace the city with a series of defensive structures that include bastions, monumental gates and watchtowers. Walking along these walls offers a unique experience. On one side, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the city and the sea, with the port of Genoa stretching out at the foot of the hills.
Walking along the walls you can discover numerous stories and legends related to the different access points and fortifications. Porta Soprana, for example, was not only an access to the city, but also an important customs control point. In fact, the goods entering and leaving Genoa were taxed here. The gate itself, therefore, became a symbol of the commercial and political power of the Republic of Genoa. Other sections of the walls, such as those near Forte Begato or Forte Sperone, allow you to explore more modern fortifications and above all an Unusual Genoa, far from the main tourist circuits.
The Mura delle Grazie, on the other hand, located near the ancient port of Genoa. They take their name from the nearby Sanctuary of Nostra Signora delle Grazie al Molo, an ancient place of worship dating back to the Middle Ages. It is also said that one of the towers, now disappeared, was used as an observation point by the guardians of the port. They here watched over the arrivals and departures of ships, ensuring the safety of the Republic of Genoa.
Unusual Genoa: the Certosa District and its Murals
Certosa, a once little-known neighborhood of Genoa, has recently become a center of urban art thanks to a street art project that has transformed its streets. Walking around the neighborhood, you can admire a series of colorful murals, each with its own unique style and story to tell. One of the most famous murals is the one dedicated to Paolo Villaggio. This portrays the famous Genoese actor and writer in the guise of his most iconic character, Fantozzi. This mural quickly became a symbol for the residents of the neighborhood, celebrating Villaggio’s humor and talent. Other interesting murals include the one entitled The Freedom Warrior by Okuda San Miguel. This mural depicts a modern warrior armed only with the rainbow flag fighting for LGBTQ+ rights and female artists. A sort of 21st century Saint George.
The murals, therefore, are not only a way to give cultural vivacity to the neighborhood, but above all a symbol of resilience. After the collapse of the Morandi Bridge, in fact, many artists have contributed with their art to bring life and color back to this area of Genoa. Thay have transformed it into an open-air gallery that celebrates both collective memory and hope for the future. Wandering around the neighborhood is also a good opportunity to discover an unusual and more popular Genoa, far from the baroque beauties of the historic center.
What to do in Genoa: travel on the Historic Trains of Genoa
Traveling on the historic trains of Genoa is a unique experience that allows you to discover the city from a different perspective, climbing hills and crossing ancient neighborhoods. Two main lines stand out for their charm and history: the Granarolo train and the Zecca-Righi funicular.
The Granarolo train, one of the few rack railway lines still active in Italy, connects the Piazza Principe station with the Granarolo hill. This route, just under a kilometer long, is a true journey through time. During the journey, the train slowly climbs along the tracks, offering new views of the city, from the old port to the roofs of the historic center. Its carriages, restored to maintain the period atmosphere, allow you to relive the experience of the commuters of the past, when this was an essential means of transport for those who lived on the hills of Genoa.
The Zecca-Righi funicular is another jewel of historic Genoese transport. Inaugurated in 1895, it connects the heart of the city with the Righi hill. Along its route, intermediate stations offer access to breathtaking nature and panoramic routes. But it is at the Righi terminus that visitors can enjoy a spectacular view of the city and the Ligurian Sea. They can also continue for a walk on the Anello dei Forti up to the Genoese forts, ancient military structures that dominate the hills.
These trains are not just a means of transport, but an open window on the history and traditions of Genoa. An authentic way to discover the city and its hills.
What to Do in Genoa: Taste Genoese Cuisine in Historic Osterie and Typical Restaurants
To conclude the exploration of an unusual Genoa, it is a must to take a tasty break in one of the historic taverns or typical restaurants of the city. An authentic experience is to taste the local specialties in places like Ostaja San Vincenzo, in via San Vincenzo, or the friggitorie of Sottoripa. Here you can taste the famous rice cake, savory vegetable pies or a cone of fried anchovies, as they used to do in the past. But not only that! In typical restaurants like Da Maria, located in Via Testadoro, you can have a genuine and homely experience. Here we can eat dishes like trofie al pesto and stuffed anchovies. In particular, this restaurant, frequented by both locals and tourists, is famous for its welcoming atmosphere and for the dishes prepared according to traditional Genoese recipes.
Ristorante Da Maria is, in fact, known for its fixed-price menu, a tradition that dates back to the post-war years when local workers sought hearty meals at reasonable prices. Another peculiarity of Da Maria is that the restaurant has maintained its original 1950s decor, transporting visitors back in time and offering an authentic Genoese experience both in terms of cuisine and atmosphere.
Final tips
Genoa is a city that hides wonders around every corner. From its ancient walls to colorful street art, from historic markets to traditional taverns, it offers endless possibilities for discovery for those willing to look beyond the most famous attractions. With these 7 out-of-the-ordinary experiences, I invite you to explore an authentic Genoa, full of stories, flavors and breathtaking landscapes. Take the time to get lost in its alleys. Listen to the stories of its inhabitants. Taste its typical dishes and let yourself be surprised by its countless facets. Have a good trip to discover my (Unusual) Genoa!
